Mount Kenya Expedition Itinerary

The SJMG Difference

SJMG has been dedicated to train and guide climbers on technical alpine terrain for decades. Our expertise in leading small, off the beaten path expeditions worldwide by some of the best guides in the field is unmatched. Combining these two elements allows us to offer you an exotic yet challenging expedition to put your technical abilities to the test, while enjoying a worry-free leisurely journey with an expedition feel.

Day 1-2: Travel

Depart home country and fly to Nairo­bi, Kenya. Arrive in Nairo­bi on Day 2. Overnight in Nairobi

Day 3: Nairobi-Mt Kenya Bandas (2,900m)

Depart from Nairobi in the morning, driving through agricultural country up to Chogoria for lunch. After lunch, we take a 4×4 jeep and drive up to the edge of the bamboo forest where we start our trekking for about 6 miles up to the Mt Kenya Bandas. Dinner and overnight at the Mount Kenya Bandas.

Day 4: Mt Kenya Bandas – Lake Ellis Campsite (3,600m)

After breakfast and sorting our porter loads, we set off up the mountain with a long walk via Lake Ellis, obtaining scenic views of Mugi, Ithanguni and the Giant’s Billiards Table, the foreground scenery and flora is just spectacular on this leg. Reaching our camp at 3,600m, we’ll be well away from any of the touristy areas.

Day 5: Lake Ellis- Minto’s Camp. ( 4,200m)

Another early start will bring us again well off the beaten path following a ridge up the mountain to later join the normal Chogoria route at an altitude of 4,100m with breathtaking views over the Gorges Valley and the Northern Moorland. Lunch is served at a small stream crossing, before continuing for a further hour to the Mintos Hut at 4,200m to enjoy a well earned night rest. Afternoon is spent relaxing at camp

Day 6: Minto’s -Shipton Camp (4,200m)

We continue our trek towards the Northwest side of the mountain, via the old Austrian Hut at 4800m. and making a final short ascent of Point Lenana, 4985m, the common trekkers’ Mount Kenya Summit. From this summit we descend to Shipton’s Camp, our base for the technical ascent of Batian.

Day 7: Shipton – Batian (5199m)

We ascent by the North Face Standard Route. With an alpine start by headlamp, the route initially follows a wide couloir which we ascend for some 7 pitches, never harder than 5.7. Some scrambling brings us to the Amphitheater, a small basin of easy rock. Ideally we arrive here by about 7:30am, enjoying a short break and the dawn light. Above this is the crux of the route, Firmin’s Tower. There are about 3 difficult pitches, all fairly short, but all in the V grade. Above this, easier terrain leads to a few more pitches and, finally, the west ridge. From this point, we continue on easy but exposed rock to Shipton’s Notch, a prominent gash in the summit ridge. More mixed 4th and easy 5th class rock leads to the airy summit of Batian. We’ll then descend via the same route aiming to hit Shipton’s Camp before dusk for dinner.

Day 8: Shipton camp- Old Moses Camp (3,300m)

After breakfast, we start our 4-5h descend via Simba col through Mackinder`s valley to the Old Moses camp. The descent is gentle and it offers ample time to enjoy the fascinating Moorlands scenery. Dinner and overnight will be at the Old Moses camp.

Day 9: Old Moses – Nairobi

3 hour descent to the Sirimon Natl. Park gate to catch our vehicle and transfer back to Nairobi, arriving there by mid afternoon.

Day 10: Extra Weather Day

Days 11-12:

Transfer to Nairobi airport and fly home. Arrival typically on day 12

Training & Follow Up Climbs

As always, being in excellent physical shape is an important component of our our programs. A good mixture of cardiovascular fitness, muscular fitness, and especially core strength will help you to maximize the potential rewards that are possible on a great climbing trip.

Before Your Trip

In order to successfully carry a 35 lb. pack up to 7 miles a day, endurance is key. Cardiovascular activities such as running, swimming, and cycling are great to build heart and lung endurance. Taking day hikes with your loaded backpack at a local park will help train your legs for the mileage you will do in the mountains. One day on the expedition involves technical rock climbing, beginning by headlamp. It is important to have some experience rock climbing moderate terrain by headlamp.

For our Mount Kenya Expedition you should be ready for:

• Hiking up to 6-7 miles per day with up to a 30 lb pack at altitudes between 8,000′ – 11,000′
• Wilderness travel
• International travel to Africa
• Technical (but easy/moderate) rock climbing by headlamp

Follow Up Climbs

• Alpine Lakes Traverse
• Chicago Basin 14’ers
• Private Alpine Guiding
• Long’s Peak: Rocky Mountain National Park

Nairobi, Kenya: Getting There

For the purposes of practicality, our program begins and ends in Nairobi, Kenya.  However, we spend minimal time in Nairobi and quickly transfer our program to Mount Kenya National Park.  Our itinerary calls for travel to the national park vehicle, which includes off-road travel.

We require our participants to fly into Nairobi, Kenya. The International Airport is a busy hub for airline travel and many options exist. Most flights from the US to Nairobi originate in New York, but many options exist. There are multiple direct flights from US to Nairobi, a 15+ hour flight.

We provide lodging in Kenya for the duration of the program.

Program Policies

Registration & Cancellation

Advance Registration is required for this program.  You have the option to either call our office and register via phone or utilize our secure Online Reservation System.  All participants must read and sign an Assumption of Risks/Liability Waiver and agree to our Reservations and Cancellations Policies.

Inclusions

• Guiding and trip leadership with an AMGA Certified, Bi-lingual guides
• Ground Transportation in Kenya
• All in-country lodging
• Porters and Cooks
• Park Entrance Fees
• Breakfasts and Dinners in the mountains
• Group camping and cooking equipment (tents, stoves, etc.)
• Group climbing and technical equipment (ropes, etc.)

Exclusions

• Transportation to Nairobi, Kenya
• Additional hotel costs before or after the program or those not planned on the itinerary
• Personal Lunch Food
• Meals or drinks in towns, cities, and hotels
• Trip cancellation insurance – recommended
• Personal alpine climbing clothing
• Costs associated with early returns, weather delays, or other factors beyond our control
• Final transfer from Nairobi hotel to airport
• Guide gratuity